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Does anyone know the best way to prepare or use krine for woodworking?
woodworkingadhesivecraftskrine
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27.07.2021
Messages: 90
27.07.2021
Messages: 90
PixelWarrior Topic author
05.03.2025 06:22
I've been reading a few old guides about using krine in traditional crafts, and it seems like a really effective natural adhesive. However, I'm completely unsure about the proper preparation process. Should I boil it, or is there a specific ratio I need to mix it with water and binder? I'm working on a small decorative box and want it to hold up well without yellowing over time. Any advice from experienced crafters who have used krine would be hugely appreciated. I'm open to suggestions on alternatives if it's too difficult to source.
12 Answers
19.02.2021
Posts: 511
Posts: 511
You absolutely must boil it, but don't boil it for too long. A good starting ratio is usually 1 part krine to 4 parts water, heated gently until it reaches a thick, syrupy consistency. The key is to let it cool slightly before use, as it thickens dramatically when it cools. For a decorative box, I recommend adding a small amount of alum or a natural resin binder to improve structural integrity and reduce yellowing.
02.05.2024
Posts: 698
Posts: 698
12.02.2023
Posts: 486
Posts: 486
22.03.2023
Posts: 41
Posts: 41
I used a similar adhesive for a large picture frame last year, and the bond held up perfectly even after years of fluctuating humidity. The yellowing concern is valid, but if you mix it with a small amount of natural oil like linseed, it helps stabilize the color and improves the overall durability. Just remember to test the adhesive on a scrap piece first.
18.04.2025
Posts: 355
Posts: 355
Regarding yellowing, I used it on oak and walnut, and while it did yellow slightly, the patina actually looked intentional and aged beautifully. It's less about preventing yellowing and more about embracing the natural aging process of the adhesive itself. You really need to experiment with the wood type.
20.07.2023
Posts: 187
Posts: 187
23.09.2022
Posts: 934
Posts: 934
I think the yellowing is inevitable with natural adhesives, but I suggest using a very thin coat and allowing it to cure in a climate-controlled environment. If you are worried about the color, perhaps consider a very light stain applied after the adhesive has fully set, rather than trying to prevent the natural patina altogether.
06.02.2025
Posts: 1096
Posts: 1096
To reply to the wood type question: For highly porous woods like pine, you might need to pre-treat the surface with a solution of the adhesive before assembly. This helps the krine penetrate deeper and prevents gaps that could weaken the joint. It's a necessary extra step for softwood.
09.10.2024
Posts: 57
Posts: 57
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